When speaking rather gloomily of culinary prowess in remote Cycladic outposts, I mentioned the feast day occurrence of ‘an unexpected superb fish soup’. This is it, as made in Apollona by the owner of the quayside café.
It is a simple way of cooking fish and vegetables in one utensil, the customary large black pot, and results in a soup which has been thickened with raw egg yolks and the juice of a large fresh lemon, served hot in deep soup plates, and a platter offish with vegetables, which follows.
The reluctant fisherman, Kapetánios, having excelled himself on such occasions, supplied Manólyi with grey mullet (képhalos), sea bass (lavráki), red gurnard (capóní) and John Dory (Christósparo). These fish, scaled and cleaned, went whole into the pot. Some substantial slices of conger eel (mougrí), moray eel (smérna) unskinned, or skinned and cleaned dogfish (skyláki, commonly caught at all times) were thrown in on top.
For 4 people you would need at least 2 kilos of whole cleaned fish selected from the fish mentioned above, plus some slices of unskinned and cleaned conger eel or moray eel which lend a certain unctuousness to the broth. It is the use of various different fish that makes it so good.