The idea for this layered cream comes from the 19th-century chef Louis-Eustache Ude. Ude had started his career in the kitchens of Versailles, France, eventually moving to Britain. He worked for a number of notable households before heading up the catering at Crockford’s, one of London’s leading gentlemen’s clubs, in 1827. He began on the then-enormous salary of £1,200 a year, and apparently left ten years later because he considered he ought to be paid £4,000 – more than 1