Cucumber Cream Ice


Preparation info

  • Difficulty


  • Serves


    (makes 850 ml 1½ pt 3½ cups )

Appears in

How to Cook The Victorian Way with Mrs Crocombe

How to Cook The Victorian Way with Mrs Crocombe

By Annie Gray and Andrew Hann

Published 2020

  • About

Victorian dessert tables invariably included ices. There were three main types: cream ice (ice cream), water ice (modern-day sorbet) and sorbet (water ice with the addition of quite a lot of liqueur or hard spirits). They were often served in elaborate moulds, with water ice in particular lending itself to very intricate designs. Much use was made of food colouring to achieve a really spectacular result. After all, the main meal was over: dessert was intended as a digestive aid, not a belly filler. Agnes Marshall, from whose book this recipe is taken, was a Victorian powerhouse who wrote a number of cookery books, of which the best are her two books on ices. She also ran a cookery school, went on lecture tours and sold a range of ice-cream making equipment for which she held patents.


  • 1 large cucumber
  • 230 g/8 oz/generous 1 cup caster sugar
  • 285 ml/½ pt/ cups water
  • 3 tbsp ginger wine, or 2 tbsp ginger brandy
  • juice of 2 lemons
  • green food colouring
  • 570 ml/1 pt/2⅓ cups whipping or double cream
  • blackcurrants and their leaves, and fern sprigs, to garnish (optional)


Peel the cucumber, halve it lengthways and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon (discard them). Chop it into chunks and put it in a saucepan with half the sugar and all the measured water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook until tender (about 15 minutes).

Put the mixture in a blender and purée. Add the ginger wine or brandy, the lemon juice and a little green colouring – you want it to be pleasantly green, rather than scarily fluorescent. Chill.

Whip the cream and remaining sugar in a large bowl to form soft peaks. Fold in the chilled cucumber mix. Put this mixture into an ice-cream maker and churn until it is stiff. If you want to mould it, spoon it into a plain mould and freeze until you are ready to turn it out. The Victorians would have garnished it with spun sugar, small frozen water ices in complicated moulds, chilled fruits in syrup, or a maidenhair fern sprig. We have added blackcurrants and their leaves; feel free to do the same.