One of the staples of northern Italian cooking is a pan roast of veal. I make this dish often, and it is always a success at dinner parties. Do not use too lean a cut, such as the top round. The shoulder or breast produces a much moister and more succulent roast. The breast may require some trimming, and if you use the shoulder, you should butterfly it (or ask the meat department if they’ll do it for you), so you have a wide thin piece that can be rolled with the pancetta.
The roast can be made 2 to 3 days ahead of time. When ready to serve, slice it and reheat it in its sauce.
© 2005 Giuliano Hazan. All rights reserved.