I ate this at Alastair Little’s Lancaster Road restaurant, just after it opened, one February when the Seville oranges were in the shops, and couldn’t believe how transcendentally good it was. The recipe is from Francesca Melman, who was the sous-chef there and, at time of writing, is chef at Tom Conran’s pub-restaurant, The Cow, in Westbourne Grove. She describes it as a mixture of