The French call it tête de veau, the Germans kalbs-kopf. When they take the calf’s brains from the brain pan, remove the meat from the bones, and sour the delectable gelatin with alittle lemon or vinegar, the Germans call it sülze. If you like the taste of head cheese made with pork, you are certain to like the more delicate veal. But in these days, when calves are butchered