Pfannkuchen in German became pancake in English around 1430 and bred an English art of pancakery divided by Hannah Glasse into Pancakes, Fine Pancakes, A Second Sort of Fine Pancakes, A Third Sort, A Fourth Sort called A Quire of Paper, and another sort of colored pancakes made green with tansy and pink with beet-root. The German Pancake, however, of Lizzie Kander and Irma Rombauer varied recipe by recipe but was essentially a single large pancake puffed in a hot skillet in the oven. I first discoverd this pancake from a recipe Craig Claiborne named, for a friend in Hawaii, “David Eyre’s Pancake.” If Eyre is not a German name, it should be, because his pancake is the German pancake, which is sometimes sprinkled with powdered sugar and lemon, sometimes smeared with jam or honey, and sometimes layered with sugared apples fried in butter.
Meantime, quarter, core, and peel the apples and thinly slice them. Heat the remaining butter in another large skillet, add the slices, sprinkle with sugar, and sauté over high heat until apples are browned. Spread them over the pancake, make a row of lemon slices across the top, and sprinkle with the powdered sugar.
© 1986 Betty Fussell. All rights reserved.