Steamed Rockfish in Black Bean Sauce

Fish markets of the Northwest display fish I’ve never seen or dreamt of elsewhere. The Pacific rockfish comes in fifty varieties and as many colors— golden, black, canary, vermillion, olive, blotched, turkey red—all of which are names for this multihued fish. The Chinese have taught us how to use such undervalued, because common, coastal fish by cooking it whole so that the flavor of head and bone permeates the delicate flesh of the body. The Chinese score the flesh deeply in parallel cuts