Mussel and Potato Stew

In Belgium, the modest mussel is a national obsession, served with splendour in even the meanest cafés. Belgians think nothing of day-trips to places with particularly elevated reputations for moules ‘en casserole’. The neat little town of Sluis, just across the border in the Netherlands, has established a whole economy on mussel restaurants aimed at Belgians who pop over to buy pornography and butter, respectively harder and cheaper than at home.

Another place of pilgrimage is the