Grilled Goat’s Cheese

This dish would figure prominently on any checklist of modern restaurant clichés. But carefully dealt with, it still makes an elegant starter, cheese course or light meal by itself. Choose a fresh, soft, mild goat’s milk cheese such as Sainte-Maure, which comes in a log; the hard, pungent types are a different sort of thing altogether and not suitable for grilling. Top-quality salad ingredients and a light hand with the dressings are the other keys to success.

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