Aubergine Béchamel

• 3 lb aubergines
• salt
• 2 oz butter

The aubergines are given a good, smoky taste by charring under a grill or over a naked flame before peeling. Curiously, Cheddar is actually better than the authentic kasar peyniri in the purée. Alone it is a good accompaniment to chops and other simple lamb or beef grills.

Char aubergines on naked flame or under hot grill until soft and black all over (for a fuller explanation, <