By Jeremy Round
A hearty composite gratin, like lasagna or moussaka, of the type that cookery books used to label ‘family suppers’. It is adapted from a peculiar eighteenth-century gourmand, Grimod de la Reynière’s, potage à la camerani.
Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan. Add all the vegetables and cook, partly covered, for about 30 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the livers, a lot of black pepper, a little salt, the allspice and cinnamon about 10 minutes before the end of cooking. The vegetables should be almost tender and the liver cooked through. Boil off any excess liquid.