Fresh Pasta Pie

An Ottoman court showpiece snack, now the speciality of many a small café in Turkey. It has a softer, more satisfying texture than Greek phyllo-pastry pies such as spanakopitta; its blandness makes it perfect autumnal comfort food.

To drink with it, try chilled buttermilk, or ayran: 50/50 plain yoghurt and iced water whisked together with a little salt, then garnished with half a hot green chilli pepper, which adds its sappy, crisp flavour to the mix, even if you don’t