Hazelnut Praline Ice-Cream

Funfair toffee apples at the Kursaal in Southend were my introduction to the idea that food could be more than something you wolfed down before trying to find excuses for not doing your homework. The contrast of dense, crisp, tangy fruit and clear, dark-tasting, brittle shell had nothing to do with being good for you or making you big and strong. The notion of food as pleasure had taken hold. Other milestones were ice-cream made with cream (instead of Mr Whippy’s sweetened