Costine di maiale e salamelle

Versions of this rustic, soulful recipe appear all over Italy. The amount of tomatoes in the dish varies. As you go farther south, more tomato and red wine are used in the sauce. Up north, less tomato is used and white wine prevails. Some cooks add a tiny bit of vinegar, while others might add a pinch of cinnamon. In Lombardy, where the dish is variously spelled cassoeula, cazzoeula, and casoeûla, among other ways, a generous measure of cabbage is braised along with the ribs a