I like making one big raviolo per person for a first course—or two for a main—because they are easier to keep track of while they are cooking. If you are standing there with hungry family or guests behind you and you have to shuffle sixteen to twenty ravioli into simmering water, then watch them like a hawk so they don’t burst from the water boiling too vigorously, or stick to the bottom of the pan from the water not boiling vigorously enough, you would wish you were cooking these larger ones. The big ones also hold for up to twenty minutes in warm (not hot) fish stock mixed with
I like wonton wrappers, the large very thin square ones, since they cook quickly, can be bought in the size you want them, and are consistent. Buy only the best quality fresh crabmeat.
Mix the crab, cream, and onion juice. Do not beat. Taste for salt, but it may not need any. Add salt if needed and
Lay out four wrappers, and put
Cook the filled wontons gently in
While they are cooking bring the shellfish essence to a boil. Then add the tomatoes and tarragon, turn down the heat, and while the essence is simmering, immediately whisk in the pieces of cold butter until all the butter is incorporated. The sauce must be smooth and hot, but do not let it boil again once you’ve started to add the butter. Taste the sauce for seasoning.
Lift the ravioli out of the water with a sieve/skimmer, let the sieve rest for a few seconds on a towel, then put one raviolo on each of the four hot plates, and pour the sauce over them.
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