Blue Corn Enchiladas with Huitlacoche and Squash Flowers

In Mexico, there is no need for black truffles—they have huitlacoche, the ambrosial black fungus that grows on corn, and it is indeed food for the gods, even if it is as hideous as it is delicious. Diana Kennedy calls its flavor “an inky, mushroom flavor that is almost impossible to describe” (although she does it well). If you have ever had squid or cuttlefish ink, think of the fungus variation of that.

You can find huitlacoche (or Ustilago maydis) in a can, and if you are ever at the Chino Ranch in southern California, you can find it fresh in their cornfields.

One of these rich enchiladas per person might be enough.

Ingredients

  • 4 fresh blue corn tortillas, as thin as possible
  • 4 ounces huitlacoche puree (canned)
  • ¾ cup fresh white Mexican cheese (queso de Oaxaca)
  • ¼ cup heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon ancho chili powder
  • pinch ground cumin
  • 1 tablespoon fresh marjoram leaves, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon sour cream
  • 8 fresh squash blossoms, -inch stem end cut off
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Mix the huitlacoche with the cheese, cream, chili powder, and cumin.

Mix the marjoram with the sour cream, season, and stuff this herb cream into the blossoms.

Melt one-fourth of the butter in a frying pan large enough to hold a tortilla, and warm a tortilla for a minute on each side in the butter. Repeat with the other three tortillas.

Divide the huitlacoche mixture amongst the tortillas, placing it just off center to one side. Roll up the tortillas and put them seam side down in an oiled, ovenproof 3-inch-deep gratin dish.

Put two stuffed blossoms on top of each enchilada, and heat them in the oven for 7 to 10 minutes, until the enchiladas are heated through and the cream inside the blossoms is hot and melts down over the enchiladas.

Serve immediately.

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