Kumquat “Fantasy” Cream

If Edouard Nignon could dream about macaroon soufflés with strawberries, then I can and have dreamt about this cream served with almost anything, or just by itself.

One morning in San Francisco in 1990, exhausted from a long charity banquet for 400 people the night before and wandering through the pastry kitchen on my way upstairs to the main kitchen, I stopped to taste the cream being prepared for tiramisu. “Stop right there!” I cried. “Cancel the