Onion-Crusted Light Potato Kugel

Some people tear off long ribbons of crisp skin from freshly roasted birds. Others will pick off the nuts or steal the chocolate curls from picture-perfect cakes.

This kugel is made for the onion snatchers: a lavish, meltingly tender layer of sweet, bronze-edged onions, aromatic with rosemary, beckons from atop the crisp crust. I add mashed potatoes to the grated raw ones for an especially light and creamy interior.