Bernie’s Lox, Eggs, and Onions

Growing up in New York, I held certain food truths to be self-evident: “Everybody knows that an appetizing store is merely a description, not a compliment.” “Both bagels and bialys must be made with our local water to achieve perfect texture.” “Jewish egg dishes like lox, eggs, and onions or salami and eggs are best prepared by New York delis or by those who cut their teeth eating in them.”

And then I tasted my cousin Bernie Kaufman’s lox, eggs, and onions.

Now, Bernie spent