Grilled Bass with Pomegranate-Mint Vinaigrette

The soft night air smelled of fallen leaves and ocean breezes in my last childhood sukkah, and we barbecued every night the week we spent there. Though I’ve lived in a Manhattan apartment since my college days, I still associate Sukkot with fall foods grilled outdoors.

This year we cooked striped bass in our fireplace grill, over wood perfumed with sticks of wild fennel gathered and dried on a recent trip to Los Angeles. But if you have neither an outdoor grill nor a fireplace, this