Etty Russo’s Lamb Mina from Izmir

Borekas, bulemas, and boyos, empanadas, tapadas, and ojaldres —Turkish Jews are extraordinarily fond of their savory pies and turnovers. For Passover, they make special versions using matzoh, called minas. Usually moistened matzoh squares form the top and bottom crust of a pie; in more elaborate minas, the matzoh may be layered through one or more fillings, creating a lasagne-like casserole.

But in Izmir, southwestern Turkey, Etty Russo’s la