Old-Fashioned Rice Pudding

Like matzoh ball soup, this eggy pudding is supremely comforting and the classic stuff of Jewish dairy restaurants and Greek diners alike. It also inspires nearly as much controversy about its preparation: should you add raisins or other dried fruit, sprinkle with cinnamon, nutmeg, or nothing at all? Follow personal preferences—I love it every way.

Made with prodigious amounts of whole milk, the pudding requires lots of patient stirring, lest it turn pasty instead of creamy-rich. Pr