The fashion for baby vegetables has been taken to an absurd point, where they are used before developing a decent flavour. Vegetable infanticide is not for me, but the first carrots of the summer are a different matter entirely. Nothing looks nicer or tastes better than a fresh bunch of carrots. When buying them, the green tops are a good indicator of how fresh the carrots really are. No matter how small the carrots are, I always peel them, for unpeeled carrots taste inevitably of earth.