Jeremy Lee is not only one of our finest cooks (‘Cook, darling, not chef’) but also one of the kindest, funniest and most intelligent men you’ll ever meet. He’s now cooking at Quo Vadis in London, and his food is sublime. Of course, this dish only dances onto his menu during spring, made with the freshest British asparagus. But eaten with the fingers, and washed down with blood orange and Campari, it puts a real,
