On the first day we were in Lombardy to research this book, I took Roberta and Franz up to the hunting lodge owned by my family friends Elsa and Tulio, where Elsa and my mum made this polenta over an open fire in the garden. Cooked like this, or even in a copper pot over a wood fire in the house, which Mamma did when I was growing up, the polenta takes on a subtle smokiness. This is the traditional way and gives the best flavour. This type of polenta