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Published 1992
Sunny Davis is from Walterboro, South Carolina, near the black and sinuous Ashepoo River, about an hour from Charleston. She comes from the Lowcountry Barnes family, one of those few who have not lost their rural traditions. The Barnes sisters—Erlene, Rena, Lessie Rae, and RuRu—are all great cooks, and their brother Russell is a stalwart for tradition. Whenever I have a question about real Lowcountry food or farming, I call a Barnes. Russell still renders his own lard in an outdoor k