Chicken over rice might be the world’s most universal dish, and Vietnamese people have made an art of this unpretentious, elemental food. In our recipe, adapted from the version my parents served at their Chinatown restaurant, Paris Sandwich, the marinade for the chicken uses sugar and soy sauce, which caramelizes to make a delicious sauce, perfect for soaking up with rice. Though it’s great on its own or with just a bit of fish sauce, you can also serve it with our