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6
Complex
Published 2023
Known variously as chickpeas, garbanzos and, in India, chholas and kabuli chanas, this unsplit, heart-shaped legume provides North Indians with some of their tastiest snack foods. As a child in Delhi, I much preferred buying my chholas from itinerant street vendors. They were invariably sourer, spicier and much tastier than anything produced at home. (One of the reasons for my partiality to ‘unclean bazaar food’, as my father called it, may well have been that we were f