Several years ago, an inventive young cook named Silvano surprised Venice by opening a restaurant serving neither of the city’s great specialties, seafood and risotto. His first courses were all made with firm, factory pasta, each with an entirely original sauce. One day Silvano surprised everyone again: he sold his interest and disappeared, leaving behind only the memories of his dazzling cooking.

One of his dishes I most admired was spaghetti with melon. Cantaloupe i