Compare this Savoy cabbage soup from Bergamo, in Lombardy, with the one from Romagna. They both start with the cabbage and end with the Parmesan, but what different roads they travel in between! This one is spicier, thanks to the pancetta; more aromatic, courtesy of the celery; and faintly muskier, a quality derived from the chickpeas.
I have left the choice of dried or canned chickpeas to the reader. For reasons I can’t fathom, the canned are exce