Not least among the pleasures of the south shore of Long Island is the native swordfish. The fine, pale pink, creamy flesh cannot be surpassed by that of any other example of the species. When we took a small summer place in Watermill, I hastened to duplicate the pasta with swordfish I’d had in Sardinia at Rita D’Enza’s restaurant Gallura in Olbia.

When I first served it, we found ourselves scraping the bowl not for more pasta, but for the sauce. And so we agreed, Victor