Spring Rolls

It feels, on occasion, that we are about to be engulfed in an avalanche of spring rolls. These small, classic fried fingers of dough, a symbolic food of the Chinese Lunar New Year, have become a culinary obsession of nearly every Chinese chef, who readily packs them with his or her current fancy. There is no food, no flavoring, no garnish that doesn‛t find its way into a spring roll. Nor has this iconic food traveled well over the years. In its migration to and translation by the West, this