Since starting on my “meat crusade” of eating only ethically sourced meat, there have been plenty of sacrifices. Wimpy burger on a road trip, bacon tossed casually on a pizza. Bacon tossed casually on anything, in fact. One I miss most is the famous/infamous local fried chicken. Which is why I make my own. In it, I use chicken thighs (they’re more interesting than breasts), because they have more folds and pockets to hold the curing mix. I considered making an aioli as a fancy condiment to the coleslaw and pickles, but in the end, I’ve settled for straight-up, store-bought mayo. That’s what was on those burgers and, frankly, that’s exactly why I miss them.