Soupe de Roche (or Soupe de Poissons de Marseille)

This is a real soup, not a soup plus fish-course combined. I prefer it to the more complicated dishes and give it very high marks indeed. It was our favourite fish soup when we were living in Tunis.

All the good ladies of Marseille, not to mention their husbands, have their own ideas about exactly how to prepare Soupe de Roche. But the general principles are clear enough. The main one is that you use a large variety of small rockfish, none of which survives to be served separately a