There was, in the 1970s, only one English fishmonger in Marseille, Kenneth Moss, and he had been there for over 20 years. His wife Anna, whom he met when taking shore leave from a troopship and returned to marry not long afterwards, contributed this recipe. She pointed out to me that, for those to whom harmless deception appeals, this dish has a double interest since many will suppose it to be of lobster.