Chapon is a local name for the rascasse rouge, of which the largest and finest specimens in the Marseille fish market are (or used to be) bought, almost every day, by M. Alphonse Mounier of the restaurant Chez Fonfon in the Vallon-des-Auffes, the little fishing port whose entrance from the sea lies under a bridge of the corniche to the east of the city. It was there that he showed me how he made this specialité de l