Anguille Sfumate (Orbetello)

Although the eels of Comacchio are the best-known in Italy, those of Orbetello have a high reputation locally. The town, half way down the west coast, is strategically situated on a spit of land with enclosed lagoons on either side, where not only eels but also grey mullet, sea bass and daurades reach a state of remarkable succulence.

I spent a lively afternoon at a small establishment there for processing eels. To call i