Tonno all Griglia con Pepe Ammaccato

One day at the restaurant, the cooks and I were in the kitchen admiring the gorgeous tuna that had just been delivered. Someone remarked it was so red and meaty that it looked like steak. Today, I thought, let’s treat it like steak—let’s serve it au poivre, or with cracked black pepper. We felt very happy with our decision, and the tuna was truly delicious.

Weeks later I was researching a special menu for the restaurant featuring Italian Renaissance food. My son, Evan, had re