Marrakech-Style Veal Tangia with Smen and Preserved Lemons

I tasted my first tangia in Marrakech, where it was baked over burning acorns behind a bathhouse, the fire having been set to warm the bath water inside. As so often when Moroccans build a fire for warmth, they figure out a way to use it for cooking too.

In this case, tall amphora-shaped clay jars called tangias were nestled in the embers. Some of these tangias contained bony parts of veal or lamb such as shoulder, feet, and tails; others were filled with lamb a