Small Entrées of Sweetbreads, Calf’s Brains and Ears, &c. &c.


For tables of which the service consists rather of a great variety of light dishes (entrées) than of substantial English fare, the ears, brains, sweetbreads, gristles or tendrons, and the tail of a calf, maybe dressed in many different ways to supply them; but they require a really good style of cookery, and many adjuncts to render them available for the purpose, as they do not possess much derided natural flavour, and their insipidity would be apt to tire if it were not relieved by the mode of preparing them. We shall give some few especial receipts for them in the chapter on foreign cookery, should sufficient space remain open for us to admit them; and insert here only such slight general directions as may suffice for preparing some of them in a simple form; as they are not in reality of first-rate importance. All of them may be served with good curried, or highly-flavoured tomato-sauce, after having been stewed in strong broth or gravy. The brains and sweetbreads cut into small slice or scallops, and mixed with béchamel, or with common white sauce, may be used to fill small vol-au-vents, or patty cases. The ears are usually filled in part with forcemeat, or a preparation of the brains, and placed upright when dished; and the upper part is cut into narrow fringe-like strips. For “Tendrons de Veau,” and “Breast of veal rolled and stewed” the reader is referred to Chapter XXXIV.