When I was a child, these crumb buns were available in any number of local bakeries near where we lived. Born a crumb-topping addict, I always looked forward to slowly picking off large pieces of the generous topping to enjoy first. Somehow there was always enough still stuck to the cake below to provide a second course from the bun. Although I learned to make many different and delicious types of crumb toppings in the ensuing years, none of them ever had the rich, dense quality of the one I remembered. It wasn’t until I came across a book about commercial baking by William J. Sultan that I discovered the secret: The fabulous crumb topping contained a small amount of almond paste—just enough to impart the dense richness I remembered. Also the weight of the topping exceeds the weight of the cake below—that’s how you get buns that offer the two-course experience.