Cut the piece of meat in two, trimming off any fat and skin. Heat the butter in a heavy pan, and, when nut-brown, fry the meat on both sides and cook it for 5 to 6 minutes in all, a little more if the meat is especially thick.
Transfer it to warm dinner plates, and quickly make a sauce with the pan juices, deglazing with the wine, and then adding the stock, lovage and seasoning to taste.
Cook it down until you have 3 to 4 tablespoons, and spoon it around the veal before serving.
This is very good with some mixed, fried mushrooms on a round of toast. I have also served it with saffron mashed potatoes and wilted spinach, and with this delicious potato terrine. It is worth making more than you need, because a slice of it cold makes an excellent accompaniment to smoked or cured salmon, mackerel or trout, as in the recipe for marinated mackerel.
© 2000 Frances Bissell. All rights reserved.