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4
Easy
By David Chang and Peter Meehan
Published 2009
When I was growing up, my mother made kimchi stew a lot: Korean moms usually do. It always had cubes of soft tofu disintegrating in it and was often based on a quick anchovy stock—a primal, primitive relation to dashi made with dried anchovies boiled in water until the water tasted like boiled dried anchovies. Sometimes she’d use Memmi, Kikkoman’s bottled “noodle soup base,” a soy-and-bonito extract concoction that’s popular with hurried moms and that you should probably avoid. Sometimes sh
