Chicken & Egg

Momofuku’s “Chicken and Egg” was inspired by a rendition of oyako-don (oyako means “mother and child,” referring to the hen and its egg) that I ate at a yakitori house in the Kappabashi district of Tokyo. A pile of rice filled the bowl. It was brushed with a taré that was smoky, salty and very sweet and on top of it sat a pile of spring onions, an egg and a single boneless chicken leg grilled over bincho-tan charcoal, with crisp, dark skin and just-cooked flesh that was