I was at some event talking with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the greatest chefs alive, when he told me this was the best dish we’d ever come up with. Not the frozen foie gras at Ko (more about that later), not anything like that—this was the one that made him think, “Why didn’t I think of this first?” That’s insanely high praise.
But, smart man that he is, he honed in on something the