Pork Belly Ssäm

Sam gyup sal is “three-layer fat”; it was a no-brainer addition to our ssäm list because: (a) we love pork belly and (b) see (a). It’s a very traditional ssäm, though in Korean restaurants the belly is often simmered or braised and rarely as tasty as it is when it’s cooked this way.

We first served sam gyup sal ssäm with a sauce that was a ceviche of razor clams (echoing raw oysters), but the wavering availability of the clams, plus the cost they added to the dish (for