Momofuku Shortcakes

Shortcakes—first with rhubarb, later with strawberries and by wintertime, with ham cream in place of fruit—were the first real dessert we made and served at Momofuku. (At Ssäm, we had been serving mochi but they were premade, purchased and arranged on a plate with sliced apples; at Noodle, we flirted with dessert for a couple of months the first summer we were open and didn’t revisit the issue until we bought a soft-serve ice cream machine when Noodle moved into a bigger space.)

But