Grilled Rice

At Ko, we use a mould to shape the rice for this dish into cylinders—the same kind of rice moulds a Japanese mum might use to shape rice, or onigiri, for a kid’s bento box lunch. Just before serving, we slick the cylinders with warmed rendered pork fat, sprinkle them with Maldon salt and char them on the flame grill. Without a rice mould (and we didn’t originally plan to use them, we planned on scooping the rice and shaping it to order—but that turned out to be a huge pain in the ass