So common is this dish in Spain, that there are thousands of variations across the country. We based this version on a bacalao esqueixada that we ate in a restaurant on the Avenida Diagonal in Barcelona’s business district — we had deliberately wandered away from the tourist dominated old part of town to dine among the working Barcelonans. It was part of a menú de dia, which started with cod salad. It is light and sharp, made with finely sliced capsicum, sharp little capers and fruity arbequina olives. For the record we continued our Barcelona lunch with some quail, slow cooked in wine, and finished with a little ripe melon for dessert.